Today, I took a break from the office at church and went surfing for an hour. This picture is of Cowell's beach which is 2.5 miles from our church. It is also recognized as one of the best places for beginners. I bought a used wetsuit from Play It Again Sports a month ago and it keeps me warm in the frigid NorCal waters. I've also gained 90 pounds since moving up here and that keeps me warm, too (actually, I've gained about 5 pounds, mostly around my ariolas).I've surfed a few times before, but today I rode my first wave. It was a great feeling...kind of like when you first get the hang of snowboarding. I can't wait to watch Point Break again...
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